Let’s face it, all winter we look forward to those beautiful hot, sunny days soaking up the “rays”, margaritas on a patio somewhere or our toes in the sand on a beach! Oh yes…it does wonders for the soul...but not so much for the skin!
So now we have a glow...but it’s all blotchy and we have brown spots showing up and our skin is dry and dehydrated and the texture is dull and lax and in desperate need of some rejuvenation!
The best way to combat hyperpigmentation from the sun is a combination of topical antioxidants (ie vitamin C) with lightening agents, exfoliants (to slough off the dead, dull surface cells) and Medical Laser/light treatments like IPL (for lighter skin toned individuals only), Accutip, Laser Genesis, or chemical peels.
The ‘gold standard’ of lightening agents is Hydroquinone (HQ). However, there is some controversy with HQ, since research and studies have shown that prolonged use at high doses (up to 12%) can cause cancer. The doses used in Canada are much, much lower (4% max) which have been shown to be safe and very effective. HQ should not be used on darker skin types, Fitzpatrick Types V or VI, and should not be used for more than 5-6 months consecutively, as the skin builds up a tolerance.
Numerous scientific publications have presented data on the skin lightening properties of cosmetic ingredients such as Arbutin, Kojic Acid, Vitamin C, Licorice Extract, Alpha Hydroxyacids, and a plethora of plant extracts. However, finding an effective replacement for hydroquinone has proven to be difficult.
Arbutin, Kojic Acid and Vitamin C are the ingredients most often found in skin whitening products, but depending on the concentration of these “actives” in the formulation and their ability to penetrate through the skin and down to the melanocytes, the skin lightening activity of the product may range from no effectiveness to mild skin lightening effects.
Excellent melanin inhibitors are: Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Ferulic Acid, and various Retinoids
Product Recommendations
DermaMD’s Diminish Lightening & Brightening Crème provides great gentle lightening of dark spots while moisturizing dehydrated skin, leaving it smooth and soft and more even-toned.
DermaMD’s Eliminate Eye Crème contains many of the above mentioned lightening ingredients with the added benefit of Vitamin K, which reduces dark circles caused by blood pooling. Shea butter helps hydrate and improves the skin’s moisture retention. This lightweight, non-oily crème promotes radiant, younger looking eyes.
Some of the best Chemical Peels for Hyperpigmentation or Melasma are the more aggressive, Medium – Deep Peels with pH levels under 2.5 containing: Azelaic Acid, Pyruvic Acid, Resorcinol, Kojic Acid.
These must be performed by a competent qualified technician or physician with comprehensive pre-treatment consultation, prepping the skin and post care.